遲來10年的紐柏林賽道開箱(上) - 汽車
By Eartha
at 2022-05-09T23:10
at 2022-05-09T23:10
Table of Contents
https://imgur.com/a/MU7Bxl2
和很多人一樣,第一次認識「紐柏林」這個名字是從汽車雜誌、網路車界新聞聽到的。
每次某車廠出了跑車,就要到這個號稱是全球最難的賽道做出成績,然後藉此宣傳一番。
雖然知道這條賽道很有名,
在那個網路還沒那麼發達、Youtube影片也沒那麼流行的年代,
對於紐柏林的了解也就僅只於此。(好像透露出年紀了...)
真正知道這個賽道有多可怕,也是和很多人一樣,
是從「Gran Turismo/跑車浪漫旅」第一次體驗到。
記得沒錯的話應該是從GT4開始,考照過程中就會出現設定在紐柏林的關卡。
從最初單個彎的跑法開始,
到最後一關必須在不能跑出柏油路面的條件下完整跑完一圈,
在那個一邊必須踩著油門
(對,我為了GT還買了方向盤,型號好像是G27)
一邊要穩住車身、眼睛不停盯著前方,
腦中預想下一個彎是什麼,要用幾檔過,
煞車點在哪裡的瘋狂中過程中,
雖然不是親身體驗,
卻也似乎能夠了解為何Nurburgring Nordchleife(紐柏林北環)
被稱為Green Hell (綠色地獄)的原因。
於是我決定在2012夏天到歐洲渡蜜月的自助旅行中,
不管說什麼也一定要排入紐柏林這一站。
(因此以下皆為2012的舊資訊,現況可能有變)
我們從德國科隆(Cologne)租車前往紐柏林,車程約一個半小時。
前一晚住在賽道到旁小鎮 Adenau 的 Hotel an Der Nordschleife。
https://imgur.com/a/zHLp22X
這間旅館的特點是從陽台就可以看到賽道,只要走過旅館旁的馬路,就可以前往賽道旁觀
戰。
https://youtu.be/kiUZlr_Yxc0
當然,從紐柏林賽道上也看的見這間民宿,後來發現甚至在房間就可聽見車輛的引擎咆嘯
、輪胎尖叫聲。
https://youtu.be/ZMmkNzieItU
中午辦完checkout問了路,正式前往十多分鐘車程之外的紐柏林。
結果抵達的是正在辦DTM(德國改裝房車賽)的南賽道,不是我要去的北環賽道。
(我猜老闆大概是以為我要去看DTM,所以就報了南賽道的路。)
https://imgur.com/a/AMPzhoU
不過也好,這段迷路讓我們淺嚐了當地的車迷文化。
https://imgur.com/a/tcpXU4g
(我自己非常喜歡這張照片。
前檔貼著 Gran Turismo貼紙的E46 M3 CSL,
車主在 Nurburg 鎮中心的留下愛車和BMW 測試中心的合影。
這應該也是他的夢想成真吧!)
路上到處都是觀戰車迷,還在賽道出口遇見一台貼滿偽裝的Mercedes Benz SLS,駕駛車
手穿著賽車服,還帶著安全帽,顯然在測試新車。(沒拍到照真的很可惜)
最後問了工作人員,然後又迷了一下路,終於找到南賽道的入口,
以及今天的第一場重頭戲-BMW Ring Taxi-的辦公室。
https://imgur.com/a/ugf3M1W
跟南賽道的現代大型建築比起來,這裡真是樸素,所以也很容易沒看到開過頭。
這裡是一個圓環,旁邊是間餐廳,紅色建築頗為顯眼。
名為Devil's Diner,在地獄入口吃東西的傢伙,想必就是惡魔吧。
在辦公室填寫完文件之後, 就是等待賽道開放。
原表定1430開放的賽道,改至1500才開放一般民眾入場。
這個時候各式各樣的怪獸美車都集結在停車場等待出發。
https://imgur.com/a/tYlbqF4
由右自左:工作人員送貨用的Audi S5(!)、
BMW E46 M3、PORSCHE 911 GT2、
敝人租的AUDI A4 AVANT、
PORSCHE 911、BMW E46 M3、BMW E46 M3 CSL 剛剛在BMW測試中心那台)
然後,時間到了,計程車也來了。
https://imgur.com/a/sMddyDI
2012年式BMW F10 M5,4.4L/560hp/680Nm
駕駛Walter是個很有趣的大叔,上車就自我介紹跟每個人握手。
一番問候之後,我們就出發前往賽道。
柵欄一開,通過減速彎道後,Walter說了一聲,「要開始摟。」
油門一催,猛烈的加速度,我終於明瞭什麼叫「從背後被踹一腳」的貼背加速感,
而且這可是一台坐滿四個大人的房車。
刺激的不只如此。
過彎的時候,明明5系列是中大型的房車,
在Walter的駕駛下,雖然可以感覺到軸距較長,
但是每個彎道都可以極為輕巧靈活地「丟入」過彎的路線,
穩定地指向彎頂點,伴隨著引擎咆嘯聲,
在驚人的速度中取得完美的路線劃過apex。
因為得應付路面起伏劇烈的紐堡林,
M5的懸吊設定並非想像中硬調,
而是硬朗中有相當的韌性與緩衝力(也就是很Q ?)。
賽道中有一段是急下坡,坡底路面斜率突然升高,整個車身在些許滯空感後立即著地。
著地時可以感受到整個車身是完整堅固的一個硬體,
懸吊系統則以優異的韌性與彈力,支撐住這股驚人的重力加速度。
乘客可以感覺到劇烈的起伏,但是並不會感到衝擊與不適。
而且即便Walter如此劇烈地操駕,但一路上並不會讓人有快要失控的恐懼感。
當然Walter的駕駛技術是高超地沒話說,
但M5這樣軸距的與重量能夠做到這樣的程度,著實令人難以想像,
也難怪英國Top Gear也盛讚F10 M5是當今最完美的車。
註:
1. 此為2012年Top Gear 的評論。
2. 後來跟Ring Taxi辦公室的大姊聊天時,
她提到每台Ring Taxi M5每跑一季就會換車。
退役車會送到慕尼黑的總部研究,研究完就壓成廢鐵報銷。
而因為每天Ring Taxi 大概要跑上20趟左右,這對車輛的負擔非常大,
大概四個月就會把一輛全新的M5搞到報銷。
https://imgur.com/a/vu6y1K1
(中間就是那位很親切的大姐)
Walter是很妙的一位大叔,
他可以一邊狂飆一邊解釋這一段賽道叫什麼名字,
有什麼故事。
同時也不忘關心我們還可以嗎?(可能怕我們吐吧)
當然,我們都說沒問題。我說可以再push harder,
他竟然回說
「I can’t push any harder. I’ve reached the limit.」
這顯然是他的謙虛之詞,畢竟要顧慮到乘客的安全。
但身為一位車手竟然這樣說自己已經到了極限,真的是個很妙的大叔。
到了最後直線前的大型彎道處,也許因為我對他的講解反應熱烈,
他竟然也教起我要怎麼過那個彎。
(186是apex,我記住了,Walter謝謝你解決我多年的疑惑。)
因為安全因素,最後的大直線路段封閉不能做極速,到這裡Walter就直接放慢。
不過據我在副駕偷偷注意的結果,彎道部分多半是用120左右的速度通過,前半直線路段
有做到220左右。
很快一圈就跑完,雖然沒有特別注意時間,不過感覺一圈大概不到十分鐘。
代價是一趟216歐元(可坐三人),但是非常非常值得。
沒有親身經歷很難想像車可以這樣子開在這樣的路上,
更不用說有Walter這麼妙的大叔當駕駛。
不過很可惜的是,計程車上禁止攝影拍照,所以這段瘋狂體驗並沒有影音紀錄。
下車前Walter主動問要不要拍合照。
迅速拍完之後,他馬上又開心地跟下一組客人握手致意,上車往賽道前進。
後來我們在停車場遇到他回來載客好幾次,
他每組客人都是這樣很興高采烈地握手合照。
看到我們也都揮手致意,真是一位很妙的大叔啊。
除了BMW提供的Ring Taxi外,
Nordschliefe自己也有類似的服務:
乘坐賽車版的Aston Martin(全車輕量化+防滾籠)繞紐柏林一圈。
https://imgur.com/a/VFMEaPg
此車僅能乘坐駕駛外加乘客一名,而且車資要價不菲。
當然,這台車也比M5還要再快。
Walter載著我們時,就要我們注意後方出現的這台Aston Martin,
後來當然也被超車了。
「沒辦法,那台車只有外皮跟引擎」Walter望著它遠去的身影有點小哀傷地這麼解釋。
被計程車載過稍微熟悉過紐柏林林北賽道後,接下來就是自己上場體驗的時間。
不過寫到這裡時間已晚,這個部份就請容許我下次在繼續了。
感謝您的耐心閱讀。
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